Thursday, May 15, 2014

Move all the things!

   Move All The Things!

So it's time to complete the drywall and get the sewing studio looking all studio like. So today is "Move all the Things!" Day.

So here we go before 

"All the things!" Will be living in my bonus room for about a week. 

Really, there are a few things. 

Off we go. I like to use what I have, what I have is common sense, and an 18 ft flat bed trailer and minions. Seriously common sense is so uncommon it should be a super power. 

Load it up!

Move it out! 

Move it back in! 

Thursday, May 8, 2014

A quick corset lacing post

Occasionally I am asked to show how to lace a corset. So let me start by saying this is not "my" method. Most modern corsets are laced much this way. However, it is nice to have a photo guide to remind you if you find yourself in need of removing and re-lacing your corset. 

Corsets can be tied with one, two or even three laces. I use one lace and get good results. I wear corsets as foundation pieces for historical costuming. I don't tight lace, that is generally where two or three laces are found. 

So, from the top...

Start with your lace at the top of the corset, the center of the lace starts under the corset, and the ends come out through the first grommet. 

Then much like shoe laces you cross over and lace through the second grommet.

At this point you could continue laceing like a shoe. However, after the lace is centered and anchored with the top two grommets I like to lace one stide of the string skipping every other grommet as seen here. Stop at the top of the waist. To do this simply note which two grommets are placed at the smallest part of the waist. Depending on the corset this may be below the middle of the grommets. The loops used to adjust the corset will be made here. 

Next lace down the other side picking up all the grommets you just skipped and stop at the top of the waist. 

Make your loops. To do this I generally pull the string out to the front edge of the corset then bring it back in to the grommets and place the string through the next grommet on the same side you are already on. These loops can be adjusted up and down to snug the fit of the corset once on as needed. 

Note the lace goes out and comes in on the same side for the loop and your laces are now coming out from under the corset. 

Cross the string so that the "shoe lacing" pattern can begin again. 

Bring each lace end out through the next grommet. 

Lace down to the bottom of the corset on one side skipping every other grommet again. 

Lace through with the second lace end picking up all the grommets you just skipped. 

Tie your laces off. I like to tie mine at a grommet on the outside of the corset. This is below the waist where, in costume, there is a great deal of volume and the knot will not break the line of your clothing. The knot being on a grommet and between two bones will also not dig into your body, this will be very much a boon after a long day in costume. 

And that is how I lace a corset. This is again a simple and common method that I feel does the job of securing a corset and allowing adjustments well. I hope this reference will come in handy. 

Monday, May 5, 2014

Five foundations challenge...Finally!

So apparently I'm the queen of procrastination but it's cut sew time or go without time. As is often the case I'm starting with foundation pieces.
Thanks so much to Mistress of Disguise for coming up with the perfect challange to get me going. 

 Five Foundations Challange

On with my first of the five foundations. #2 is corsets and stays. I am making a regency era corset from the Laughing Moon pattern. The fabric is two layers of cotton linen.the pattern calls for cotton sateen, I for some reason have this notion that before Victoria everyone lived in linen. Silly I know but I purchased the fabric before reading the pattern, another vice, and I am just going to muddle forth. I have decided to hand sew this corset, less because it's historically accurate and more because my machine is currently in the shop for the next 10 days. So with it out for a well deserved and much needed tune up, I have the chance, without the catch net of a machine standing by, to make a corset by hand. Something I have always wanted to do but can easily talk myself out of. 

This is a new gadget I'm liking, it is a Fons and Porter making pencil which erases from fabric. The point is sharp for making accurate marks. The "leads" come in a dark or a white. 

I like long fine needles...long and VERY fine. English needles are my favorite however they become more difficult to find here in the United States. These are the latest needles I am trying and so far I am very pleased with them. So if your curious this is what I am using. ** edit- these are, after looking more closely made in England! So there you have it...want good fine needle? English. 

I took the advice given in the pattern to stay stitched around the edges of all the pieces first to keep the fabric from raveling. See? I'm not all sew and go, I can be taught. 

The wrong side of the first gusset.

The right side of the first gusset.

First cup complete.

One layer done.

The front piece of the corset and lining with gussets complete. 

The hip gussets marked and slit.

The first hip gusset in, here from the right side. 

First set of his gussets in progress. Today's reading of the pattern, tracing the pattern, cutting, and hand sewing totals up to about seven hours sewing time. All but four hip gussets (the lining) are complete at this point. 

And with that...I have officially accepted the Five Foundations Challange! 

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